Apr 2008

While camping in Chalten we met some Swiss cyclists who told us about a rather labourious crossing from Chile to Argentina that involved two ferries and a day of trekking. It sounded pretty cool to me, and I was able to talk Eden into it. To make things more challenging, we decided to skip one of the ferries and use the money we saved on pizza and beer in town. What a great idea!

Late in the season the ferry only leaves once a week, so we were forced to stay in Chalten a few extra days before catching a bus to Lago Desierto 37km away. That day we hiked 25km with EVERYTHING up and down the side of the lake to reach a remote Argentine border post where we camped for the night. The following day we packed everything up and trekked a further 30 odd km to the Chilean border post and camped at a very isolated estancia (farm). The following day we caught the ferry to the small town (500 peeps) of Villa O´Higgins. This town was founded in the late 60s by the Chilean government by rounding up all the people in the area and creating a town on the frontier to strengthen their territorial claim to the area. Because of border disputes, the crossing has only recently become popular. Last year 1500 took it and this year just over 3000.

Villa O´Higgins was pleasant enough and we did another short trek up the Rio Mosco and stayed at a free refugio with some Swiss friends we had met earlier.

Back in town we were unlucky and the bus out of town was full. This was not good, and in a place at the end of the Carretera Austral (southern highway), there isn´t much traffic. Nevertheless, we tried hitching out of town for two days before a guy offered to drive us 80 of the 90km to the ferry. Not wanting to wait two more days we took the ride but then using GPS and a road map, were disappointed to find out he had only dropped us about 45km from town. Oops! So we spent the next 6hrs walking along the road, followed by circling Andean Condors... not very optimistic for us, perhaps? Before just before the final 20km a friendly couple picked us up and we hopped in the back of their truck with a load of firewood to ride to the ferry to catch the last sailing of the day.

Talking to them on the ferry they offered to drive us all the way to Cochrane about 200km away. Awesome.

It´s been a while since the last update so I´ll try to keep this short and up to where we are now. Also, I used up all of the photo storage for the month here so more photos are on Flickr.

In the tiny town of El Chalten we did a 4.5 day trek around the jagged mountain peaks of Cerro Torre and the Fitz Roy massiff. These two peaks are highly prized mountaineering peaks and until somewhat recently the Cerro Torre was believed to be unclimbable. The Fitz Roy was named after the French captain of the Beagle and the first European to see it was Charles Darwin.

We decided to save our ice trek/climb for Chalten since it was the better (and cheaper) location to do it in compared to Torres del Paine and Calafate. I should get some photos of this up on Flickr.

Camping at the first camp near Cerro Torre was horrible. We were warned the first night that there were mice but nothing would have prepared us for it. They were climbing all over our tent chewing ANYTHING plastic. Basically we stayed up all night hitting the tent to knock them off. Not very enjoyable.

The trek itself was excellent and not nearly as long as our Torres itinerary.